hmong knife from French Guiana

kronckew · 27th October 2014, 06:37 PM

last time i did that i had foamy gorilla glue all over the place, definitely do not wait for it to harden before you trim it. i was gluing an alpine spike ferrule on the end of a fokos/ciupaga walking stick axe. the dollup of glue expanded and pushed the ferrule off. i removed some foam reseated it, and the foam pushed it off again. removed more foam, cut a shallow relief groove, reseated it and kept cleaning foam oozing out for about an hour. it finally stopped. that ferrule ain't coming off no how, no way, not ever

i barely managed to keep my hands from getting stuck to the axe shaft.

the longer sword has a 1 in. wide tang about 3/8" thick that goes all the way to just before the pommel, then has a short screw rod welded to it to hold the pommel nut that holds it all together., which is also a counterweight. the bolster is about 3/16 thick stainless steel. the shorter one was polished unlike the longer one which is etched to show the hamon, but is the same steel &heat treatment. it has two pins thru the tang that you can see, which again is about an inch wide and terminates threaded into the pommel.

they were made by serge cozun darbs, in aranyik, but he started having QC problems and no longer is on the interweb. the smiths in aranyik however still keep on making these swords and knives the same as they have done for centuries.

27th October 2014, 06:37 PM	#13
kronckew Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Room 101, Glos. UK Posts: 4,228	last time i did that i had foamy gorilla glue all over the place, definitely do not wait for it to harden before you trim it. i was gluing an alpine spike ferrule on the end of a fokos/ciupaga walking stick axe. the dollup of glue expanded and pushed the ferrule off. i removed some foam reseated it, and the foam pushed it off again. removed more foam, cut a shallow relief groove, reseated it and kept cleaning foam oozing out for about an hour. it finally stopped. that ferrule ain't coming off no how, no way, not ever i barely managed to keep my hands from getting stuck to the axe shaft. the longer sword has a 1 in. wide tang about 3/8" thick that goes all the way to just before the pommel, then has a short screw rod welded to it to hold the pommel nut that holds it all together., which is also a counterweight. the bolster is about 3/16 thick stainless steel. the shorter one was polished unlike the longer one which is etched to show the hamon, but is the same steel &heat treatment. it has two pins thru the tang that you can see, which again is about an inch wide and terminates threaded into the pommel. they were made by serge cozun darbs, in aranyik, but he started having QC problems and no longer is on the interweb. the smiths in aranyik however still keep on making these swords and knives the same as they have done for centuries. Last edited by kronckew; 27th October 2014 at 06:48 PM.