INDIAN MATCHLOCK-TORADOR

BANDOOK · 21st April 2015, 05:43 AM

Indian matchlock musket or Torador
Early 19 th century,Rajasthan ,North west India.Ivory and silver inlays
190 cms long
Longest gun in my collection

kahnjar1 · 21st April 2015, 06:28 AM

NIIIICE!! Very nice piece Rajesh. Some cleaning needed but that is to be expected.
\Stu

BANDOOK · 21st April 2015, 06:35 AM

THANKS STU.,APPRECIATE YOUR COMMENTS,WISH I LIVED IN CHRISTCHURCH WOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME TIPS ON CLEANING,BIT SCARED SOMETIMES TO TOUCH OLD PARTS AS THEY CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED.ITS A VERY LARGE GUNA ND QUIET HEAVY NO WONDER THEY WERE CALLED ALSO AS FORT GUNS,REGARDS RAJESH

kahnjar1 · 21st April 2015, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BANDOOK

THANKS STU.,APPRECIATE YOUR COMMENTS,WISH I LIVED IN CHRISTCHURCH WOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME TIPS ON CLEANING,BIT SCARED SOMETIMES TO TOUCH OLD PARTS AS THEY CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED.ITS A VERY LARGE GUNA ND QUIET HEAVY NO WONDER THEY WERE CALLED ALSO AS FORT GUNS,REGARDS RAJESH

If you wish to email me with specific cleaning questions please do so.
I note that the trigger bar is obviously bent on your Torador. Needs to be straightened so that the trigger is inside the slot underneath, and more importantly so that it does not accidently get broken off.
Stu

BANDOOK · 21st April 2015, 10:38 AM

HI STU,GOOD OBSERVATION,AM BIT SCEPTICAL ON ALTERING OR TOUCHING THINGS COZ A SACRED I MAY DAMAGE THE PARTS,BUT I GUESS I NEED TO START BEING MORE ADVENTURIOUS AND GET THEM RESTORED ,CHEERS

Roland_M · 21st April 2015, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BANDOOK

HI STU,GOOD OBSERVATION,AM BIT SCEPTICAL ON ALTERING OR TOUCHING THINGS COZ A SACRED I MAY DAMAGE THE PARTS,BUT I GUESS I NEED TO START BEING MORE ADVENTURIOUS AND GET THEM RESTORED ,CHEERS

Hello,

try to use Steel Wool from Grade 00 (fine) to 0000 (superfine) and german oil "Ballistol" (penetrating oil). Steel Wool is not expensive and causes no scratches.
Together with "Ballistol" (everytime after polishing with steel wool) and a lot of time, maybe you can see a damask pattern on the Barrel.

Kind regards Roland

kahnjar1 · 21st April 2015, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roland_M

Hello,

try to use Steel Wool from Grade 00 (fine) to 0000 (superfine) and german oil "Ballistol" (penetrating oil). Steel Wool is not expensive and causes no scratches.
Together with "Ballistol" (everytime after polishing with steel wool) and a lot of time, maybe you can see a damask pattern on the Barrel.

Kind regards Roland

I agree. Do NOT use coarse abrasives. If you can get the barrel off then soak it in pineapple juice. That will also remove crud.
Stu

BANDOOK · 22nd April 2015, 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roland_M

Hello,

try to use Steel Wool from Grade 00 (fine) to 0000 (superfine) and german oil "Ballistol" (penetrating oil). Steel Wool is not expensive and causes no scratches.
Together with "Ballistol" (everytime after polishing with steel wool) and a lot of time, maybe you can see a damask pattern on the Barrel.

Kind regards Roland

thanks roland,shall get that done,have used ballistol in the past,its really good except the terrible smell, which remains for long

BANDOOK · 22nd April 2015, 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kahnjar1

I agree. Do NOT use coarse abrasives. If you can get the barrel off then soak it in pineapple juice. That will also remove crud.
Stu

thanks stu,do you polish the wooden parts and stock etc,any particular polish or bees wax,cheers

kahnjar1 · 22nd April 2015, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BANDOOK

thanks stu,do you polish the wooden parts and stock etc,any particular polish or bees wax,cheers

After cleaning I use linseed oil ONLY.
Stu

BANDOOK · 22nd April 2015, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kahnjar1

After cleaning I use linseed oil ONLY.
Stu

YES LINSEED IS THE BEST FOR ALL FURNITURE AS IT PENETRATES AND PRESERVES WELL,YOUR MUSKETS LOOK MUCH BETTER FROM THE TIME YOU HAVE GOT THEM SO WELL DONE ON THE RESTORATION ,THANKS FOR THE TIPS
REGARDS

rickystl · 27th April 2015, 07:27 PM

Hi Bandook. That is a really decorative looking Torador. And should clean up nice. My cleaning methods are similar to Stu's. Work's fine.
By the way all, I actually have a spare trigger and spring assembly for a Torador. I bought it online figuring one day I or someone else might need it. Might be the only "spare" around ? LOL

Rick.

BANDOOK · 30th April 2015, 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickystl

Hi Bandook. That is a really decorative looking Torador. And should clean up nice. My cleaning methods are similar to Stu's. Work's fine.
By the way all, I actually have a spare trigger and spring assembly for a Torador. I bought it online figuring one day I or someone else might need it. Might be the only "spare" around ? LOL

Rick.

HI RICK,THANKS FOR YOUR COMMENTS ,YES SPARES ARE ALWAYS HANDY AND DIFFICULT TO COME ACROSS,DO YOU HAVE ANY TORADORS IN YOUR COLLECTION,PLEASE CAN YOU PUT UP PICTURES HERE,ALSO HOW YOU DISPLAY YOUR GUNS?CHEERS RAJESH

rickystl · 30th April 2015, 05:06 PM

Hi Rajesh. Yes, I do have one Torador in my collection. It's in good condition as-is. But I've decided to make a shooter, so I will be taking the barrel off this weekend and sending it to my gunsmith. It will require the plugged end of the breech being drilled out, with the breech being threaded and a new threaded plug installed. Also, burnishing the bore clean and a new pan cover made. This will also allow the gunsmith and myself to see how the breech end of the barrel is designed. We will take pictures during the process, and I will post here as progress is made. Wish me luck!! LOL.

The photos posted by Stu of his Torador was most helpful in this regard.

I have a third bedroom at home - which is no longer a bedroom LOL - that stores my collection. At present, it's a cluttered mess.

All 4 walls are full, with multiple gun and sword racks, a long table, etc. I'll post pics once it's cleaned up and I order a couple more gun racks. As for display on the walls, I use different sizes of simple "L" hooks, covered with plastic tubing, masking tape, or brown colored electrical tape, depending on what I'm displaying. The rest of the long guns and pistols are mounted in vertical display stands, since there are too many to all display on the walls. I get the wood gun/sword racks from a place in Texas. They will custom make just about anything you want, at very reasonable prices. I can PM you with their information if you like. Rick.

rickystl · 30th April 2015, 05:12 PM

Here's a couple of pics of my Torador...

ward · 30th April 2015, 07:22 PM

linseed oil collects dust and never dries. It will weep if in a hot environment. beeswax with a little bit of olive oil applied hot is a better choice and more traditional.

BANDOOK · 1st May 2015, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ward

linseed oil collects dust and never dries. It will weep if in a hot environment. beeswax with a little bit of olive oil applied hot is a better choice and more traditional.

THANKS WARD FOR THE NEEDFUL INFO CHEERS

BANDOOK · 1st May 2015, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rickystl

Here's a couple of pics of my Torador...

YES IT LOOKS IN GREAT NICK AND SHOOTING CONDITION,THOUGH I WOULD NEVER MESS WITH SUCH OLD GUNS,DONT LIKE TO RISK BLASTING THEM
YES ONCE YOU HAVE ORGANISED YOUR ROOM,DO POST PICTURES,WOULD LOVE TO HAVE A LOOK
KIND REGARDS
RAJESH

Pukka Bundook · 8th August 2015, 01:23 PM

Please pardon me opening up an old thread, but just a comment on Linseed oil;
To preserve and feed wood, raw linseed is best, especially if cut with turpentine, as this helps it penetrate.
If after giving the stock all it can take, it is rubbed hard dry with a cloth, no surface build -up will occur, and no stickiness.
After this initial "feeding", the stock can have a little oil applied Very sparingly, just a few drops, and rubbed out with the hand until it feels hot due to friction. Put it to one side for a while, then polish hard again with a cloth.
This can be done at any time to refresh the finish and will do no harm.
The problem with linseed, is if too much is applied and this can create a thick gummy layer as Ward describes, Especially if boiled linseed is used.
With linseed, it is good to remember that the oil that is rubbed Off is what counts!

Thanks for your time,
Richard.

BANDOOK · 9th August 2015, 11:42 AM

THANKS RICHARD FOR YOUR INFORMATION,REGARDS RAJESH
WOULD YOU HAVE ANYTORADORS IN YOUR COLLECTION,PLEASE PUT THEM UP FO US TO VIEW,CHEERS

Pukka Bundook · 9th August 2015, 01:41 PM

Rajesh,

I do have one, (In need of repair) and a couple of barrels, but they are still in the UK at present.
Still, I do have some photos, so may start a thread as time permits!

Richard.

BANDOOK · 10th August 2015, 10:49 AM

THATS GREAT RICHARD,HOPE IT REACHES YOU SAFELY,GOODLUCK,REGARDS

21st April 2015, 05:43 AM	#1
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	INDIAN MATCHLOCK-TORADOR Indian matchlock musket or Torador Early 19 th century,Rajasthan ,North west India.Ivory and silver inlays 190 cms long Longest gun in my collection Attached Images

30th April 2015, 05:12 PM	#15
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Here's a couple of pics of my Torador... Attached Images

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21st April 2015, 06:28 AM	#2
kahnjar1 Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND Posts: 2,786	NIIIICE!! Very nice piece Rajesh. Some cleaning needed but that is to be expected. \Stu

21st April 2015, 06:35 AM	#3
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	THANKS STU.,APPRECIATE YOUR COMMENTS,WISH I LIVED IN CHRISTCHURCH WOULD HAVE TAKEN SOME TIPS ON CLEANING,BIT SCARED SOMETIMES TO TOUCH OLD PARTS AS THEY CAN BE EASILY DAMAGED.ITS A VERY LARGE GUNA ND QUIET HEAVY NO WONDER THEY WERE CALLED ALSO AS FORT GUNS,REGARDS RAJESH

21st April 2015, 10:38 AM	#5
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	HI STU,GOOD OBSERVATION,AM BIT SCEPTICAL ON ALTERING OR TOUCHING THINGS COZ A SACRED I MAY DAMAGE THE PARTS,BUT I GUESS I NEED TO START BEING MORE ADVENTURIOUS AND GET THEM RESTORED ,CHEERS

27th April 2015, 07:27 PM	#12
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Hi Bandook. That is a really decorative looking Torador. And should clean up nice. My cleaning methods are similar to Stu's. Work's fine. By the way all, I actually have a spare trigger and spring assembly for a Torador. I bought it online figuring one day I or someone else might need it. Might be the only "spare" around ? LOL Rick.

30th April 2015, 05:06 PM	#14
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,630	Hi Rajesh. Yes, I do have one Torador in my collection. It's in good condition as-is. But I've decided to make a shooter, so I will be taking the barrel off this weekend and sending it to my gunsmith. It will require the plugged end of the breech being drilled out, with the breech being threaded and a new threaded plug installed. Also, burnishing the bore clean and a new pan cover made. This will also allow the gunsmith and myself to see how the breech end of the barrel is designed. We will take pictures during the process, and I will post here as progress is made. Wish me luck!! LOL. The photos posted by Stu of his Torador was most helpful in this regard. I have a third bedroom at home - which is no longer a bedroom LOL - that stores my collection. At present, it's a cluttered mess. All 4 walls are full, with multiple gun and sword racks, a long table, etc. I'll post pics once it's cleaned up and I order a couple more gun racks. As for display on the walls, I use different sizes of simple "L" hooks, covered with plastic tubing, masking tape, or brown colored electrical tape, depending on what I'm displaying. The rest of the long guns and pistols are mounted in vertical display stands, since there are too many to all display on the walls. I get the wood gun/sword racks from a place in Texas. They will custom make just about anything you want, at very reasonable prices. I can PM you with their information if you like. Rick.

30th April 2015, 07:22 PM	#16
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	linseed oil collects dust and never dries. It will weep if in a hot environment. beeswax with a little bit of olive oil applied hot is a better choice and more traditional.

8th August 2015, 01:23 PM	#19
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Please pardon me opening up an old thread, but just a comment on Linseed oil; To preserve and feed wood, raw linseed is best, especially if cut with turpentine, as this helps it penetrate. If after giving the stock all it can take, it is rubbed hard dry with a cloth, no surface build -up will occur, and no stickiness. After this initial "feeding", the stock can have a little oil applied Very sparingly, just a few drops, and rubbed out with the hand until it feels hot due to friction. Put it to one side for a while, then polish hard again with a cloth. This can be done at any time to refresh the finish and will do no harm. The problem with linseed, is if too much is applied and this can create a thick gummy layer as Ward describes, Especially if boiled linseed is used. With linseed, it is good to remember that the oil that is rubbed Off is what counts! Thanks for your time, Richard.

9th August 2015, 11:42 AM	#20
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	THANKS RICHARD FOR YOUR INFORMATION,REGARDS RAJESH WOULD YOU HAVE ANYTORADORS IN YOUR COLLECTION,PLEASE PUT THEM UP FO US TO VIEW,CHEERS

9th August 2015, 01:41 PM	#21
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Rajesh, I do have one, (In need of repair) and a couple of barrels, but they are still in the UK at present. Still, I do have some photos, so may start a thread as time permits! Richard.

10th August 2015, 10:49 AM	#22
BANDOOK Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: AUCKLAND,NEW ZEALAND Posts: 624	THATS GREAT RICHARD,HOPE IT REACHES YOU SAFELY,GOODLUCK,REGARDS