I agree: Topkapi is a MUST!
While at Askeri, ask to see Ms. Gozde Yasar: very nice curator and was very helpful to me re. Laz Bicagi. By the way, remind her that I am still waiting on her translation of the inscription on the Yataghan blade. If she lost it, please ask her to e-mail me at:
abarkan@umich.edu
I asked her to join the Forum; please apply your charms to convince her we need her knowledge.
The Grand Bazaar was a disappointment: what was even remotely affordable (mind you, nothing less than $500!!!!!) was a fake. The good things were astronomically overpriced. Begin haggling ONLY if you intend to buy: otherwise, you will leave the place with some kind of monstrosity you never intended to get to start with.
Plenty of contemporary Caucasian scabbards (silvered brass) with dreadful blades.
Great food! I repeat: great food!
The people are remarkably nice and go out of their way trying to be helpful.
Have a great time: it is a fabulously interesting and pleasant place.