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Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey
Thanks for that Ariel, I've learnt something.
I've never used tannic acid know nothing about it.
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Hello Alan,
watch out with tannic, it is not as harmless as many people claim.
If you have massive corrosion with deep pitting, tannic is almost useless and it also can ruin the surface of the blade.
Two years ago I tried out tannic on a japanese sword stick. The first attempt was very good, the hamon was very strong and clear. I gave it another try and the second result was horrible, the surface was ruined and the hamon was lost. I still don't know why.
Tannic is a good choice for WW2-pieces with relatively recent corrosion but imho nothing for your sword.
You also should know, that such a deeply corroded sword often looks gruesome after rust removal.
Tannic will be used with water and the water goes everywhere, into the smallest cavities and could make the blade more worse.
My suggestion is simple, use a creeping oil on the surface for at least one year or so and check the surface every two or four weeks. After one or two years of oil-treatment I would use sandpaper or steelwool to finish the surface.
Have you think about elektrolysis? All you need is a car battery charger a bucket and a little bit of baking soda. I already made it and I'm totally satisfied with the result. The heavily corroded japanese arrows in the picture had an electrolysis treatment. The lower part of the shaft is untreated. All you need to do is cleaning the object from time to time during the treatment. Very easy and safe. No acid, no salt and no toxic gases, just a little bit of hydrogen.
Museums often use elektrolysis for restoration.
Roland