View Single Post
Old 12th February 2019, 02:18 AM   #13
Larks
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Sth East Queensland Australia
Posts: 10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kai
Hello Greg,


It usually helps to work on those stubborn spots with a fine needle and steady hand; if you want to play safe, you can also utilize picks that are softer than the mild steel of the blade (picks from hardwood, etc.).



I'd be more weary of the ivory which does not respond well to acids...

It really takes perseverance to dismount some keris hilts: Just heat long enough near the flared base (up to several minutes - stop if you see bubbles from possibly boiling resin or smoke exiting from the pesi hole; with a candle flame you can't hurt the blade; make sure to protect the hilt from heat though!) and let it cool again if the hilt doesn't move upon very gentle twisting/pulling - some old keris need weeks of multiple cycles before they let go!



Removal of those stubborn spots helps to minimize total exposure of the metal blade.



I'd suggest not to do any reprofiling nor even mild polishing. Some cultures prefer different approaches but any of this work needs quite specialized knowledge on traditional styles, etc.



This blade will be somewhat porous and needs thorough and quick drying to avoid rust appearing again quickly. Ample application of any gun oil will help; some may prefer to use a water displacing oil first. After soaking for a few days, excess oil can be removed (or the blade just wrapped in plastic foil for longterm storage); aromatic oils can be added at this stage, too; adding a thin layer of microcrystalline wax might be helpful for display purposes - application can be quite difficult though since excess wax tends to fill crevices/pores and attract dust in the long run. I would not recommend Ren Wax since it also contains polyethylene waxes which can prove difficult to remove.

Regards,
Kai

Thank you Kai, I really appreciate your generous and well regarded advice.

I ended up carefully chipping some of the more stubborn spots of rust with a very fine screw driver last night and was able to avoid the blade and so avoid any gouging or scratching that might have marred the blade.

And I did leave it in the vinegar overnight and this morning it looked pretty good, so I washed it thoroughly in fresh water, dried it and have left it soaking under a good dose of WD40 while I’m at work today (WD40 being all that I have at hand at the moment - I’m working away from home and so don’t have anything else much here at the moment - everything is a bit of an improvise).

I did set the blade up so as to keep the ivory hilt clear of the vinegar while soaking it as I was very mindful of damaging or discolouring that and it seems quite OK.

I will take some better photos this evening and will include a better profile of the hilt.

Thank you all again for your advice and comments
Greg
Larks is offline   Reply With Quote