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Originally Posted by drdavid
Hi Gio
what strength NaOH have you used in this set up
what sort of wire are you using in the coils, copper?
regards
DrDavid
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Hi David,
I have made a free but faithful translation of the original text about electric de-rusting (from "Restauration des armes ŕ feu" by Jean-René Clergeau, Stampfli & Cie, Berne 1981)
Electrolysis
This procedure is based upon the reduction of oxides through direct current.
This is carried out in a container for electrolysis where the piece to be de-rusted is the cathode. It is easy to find the necessary material, the more expensive component is a 6 or 12 V car battery charger. The cylindrical container can be of any insulating material (ceramic or plastic-which is better) of a convenient size. For keris cleaning a height of 70/80 cm and a width of 20 cm can be utilized for any size, including Panjang.
The anode is made with an iron bar, of the type used for concrete, 6-8 mm thick, made up in a spiral against the internal wall of the container. At an end the positive pole is connected, while the negative pole is connected with the piece to be treated through a non-galvanized iron wire. The piece must be fully submersed and should not touch neither the bottom of the container nor the anode. The electrolyte is a solution in water (better rain water-I use distillate water used for batteries) of caustic soda in granules in the proportion of 50 grams per litre. This solution shall be filtered from time to time, and the anode cleaned.
On the positive thread a rheostat should be inserted, so that the electric power can be reduced, mainly for starting the reaction, so that the battery charger is not unnecessarily strained. A buzzer can be useful for indicating a surcharge. The sound will warn to reduce the power, and increase it as soon as the electrolyse process starts , demonstrated by the appearance of hydrogen bubbles (this happens quickly). The operation must be left working for 12 to 24 hours, but a longer period is allowed.
The blade, once the process ends, will show a blackish surface of reduced oxides, which must be eliminated with washing and brushes (of bronze, if necessary), until the metal appears clean and brilliant.
CAUTION: THIS PROCEDURE MUST NOT BE USED FOR SPRINGS WHICH BECAME BRITTLE (luckily our keris do not have springs), AND A GREAT ATTENTION SHOULD BE PAID IN CASE OF KINATAH ON VERY RUSTED BLADES.
The illustration transmitted last month should help.
I hope you will find such information useful