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Originally Posted by Philip
Linseed oil is a traditional gunstock finish but it must be selected and used with care to avoid the job turning into a mess. First off, many stock makers and restorers avoid raw oil, it can be quite a bother to prevent it becoming a sticky layer. Boiled linseed is the version to use, it's a lot more manageable.
On an antique stock, whose surface has already been cleaned of dirt and accumulated gunk, you can used boiled linseed "straight" without cutting it with gum turpentine. I like to impregnate small cloth applicator rags with the oil and let them sit in the open for about 3 days to become slightly tacky (but not overly stiff and sticky) before applying generously to the wood. Wipe off the excess several hours later, and apply another, thinner layer. Wipe off the next day and repeat as necessary. Just monitor the surface, the oil shouldn't just be soaking in and disappearing, but it should appear to fill the grain. As you wipe off the excess as you go, the wood should develop more of a soft sheen. Terrycloth towel pieces, or (better yet) pieces of burlap are excellent for wiping and polishing. The idea is not to develop a glossy varnish-like surface, but rather a mellow look like old ivory. With practice you can use the linseed to create this effect without an undue amount of sweat and elboegrease. When finished, let sit for another day or two for final "hard" drying in the wood's pores as well as the surface, and then finish with a good wax.
For bringing out the nice figured grain on fine sporting gunstocks, I've found that tung oil is a good choice. Years ago someone gave me a small bottle of it, the traditional formulation from China, and although trickier to use than linseed, the final result has a slightly richer sheen because it builds up more of a layer on the surface. Each application must dry thoroughly, there is a frosty white coating that develops which must be rubbed out with very fine steel wool. The result is gorgeous on a top-grade piece of wood.
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Yes I agree that boiled linseed is fine, but so is raw. I am talking HAND rubbed here, and not slopped on with a rag.
With the old method of handrubbing, there was some friction heat generated which "spread" the oil and avoided the congealing effect. As you have also stated there are many proprietry products on the market, but the old method IMHO is still the best for refurbishing NICE stocks. Try it sometime and see what you think. It takes time, but the results I believe are worth it.
Stu