Ethnographic Arms & Armour - View Single Post

David R · 14th February 2013, 12:56 AM

I am not that familiar with tropical woods, so cannot really give much advice for that area, but for what it is worth.....
Traditionaly in the west we used Lime wood also known as Linden, also Alder and Poplar. These are "soft" hardwoods without a dominant grain and low in resin, therefore relatively easy to work and good for long term storage. Got to be said though that Western scabbards are usualy leather covered and fitted with metal chapes and ferrules and so how they last without these is another matter. Pine was used in the 19thC, but was impregnated with paraffine wax to counter it's tendency to corrode steel.
Japanese swords are scabbarded in Honoki a varient of Magnolia, NB NOT hinoki which is a relative of cedar....took me a while to sort that one out myself. Again HONOKI is one of those "soft" hardwoods with little or no resin and so easily workable and good for long term storage. Usualy lacquered or covered with Samegawa (rayskin) as it is not a particularly decorative wood.
Regarding good wood for Moro Kris sheaths.....I would go through the Keris section and see what is mentioned there. Otherwise I would have a look at one or other varient of Rosewood..handsome and nicely coloured and used for some Japanese sword furniture, so I would guess not too prone to corroding your valued blade.
Others will have a lot more knowledge than I on this subject, so this is far from the last word, but it is something to be getting on with.

14th February 2013, 12:56 AM	#3
David R Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Posts: 1,052	I am not that familiar with tropical woods, so cannot really give much advice for that area, but for what it is worth..... Traditionaly in the west we used Lime wood also known as Linden, also Alder and Poplar. These are "soft" hardwoods without a dominant grain and low in resin, therefore relatively easy to work and good for long term storage. Got to be said though that Western scabbards are usualy leather covered and fitted with metal chapes and ferrules and so how they last without these is another matter. Pine was used in the 19thC, but was impregnated with paraffine wax to counter it's tendency to corrode steel. Japanese swords are scabbarded in Honoki a varient of Magnolia, NB NOT hinoki which is a relative of cedar....took me a while to sort that one out myself. Again HONOKI is one of those "soft" hardwoods with little or no resin and so easily workable and good for long term storage. Usualy lacquered or covered with Samegawa (rayskin) as it is not a particularly decorative wood. Regarding good wood for Moro Kris sheaths.....I would go through the Keris section and see what is mentioned there. Otherwise I would have a look at one or other varient of Rosewood..handsome and nicely coloured and used for some Japanese sword furniture, so I would guess not too prone to corroding your valued blade. Others will have a lot more knowledge than I on this subject, so this is far from the last word, but it is something to be getting on with.