Nice work, like the bolster/pommel & blade, kind of an eastern langeseax. I think I'd have squared off the end of the scabbard and left it open, and would carry the blade spine down, like a seax, to keep the edge from rubbing, sidewalls should just be tall enough to let you insert the blade w/o it flopping side to side between the bridges and the scabbard back perpendicular to the blade flat. Taiwan swords use an open scabbard with wire staples and/or zigzags across the open flat, which is also a cool way and could be used in addition to the bridges.
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