[tunggulametung]

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

As to whether rust should be removed or not, I cannot understand why this should be in question. It doesn't depend on one's personal preference for visual effect, it depends on whether one wishes to assume responsibility for the ongoing maintenance of the keris, or not. If yes, there is no option but to remove the rust. Rust that appears to be stable can easily be reactivated and a blade with stable rust requires a higher degree of awareness. A keris should not have any rust, not only because of the need for maintenance, but because of its status as a cultural icon and the obligations attached to that status.

As a general rule, yes, I'm agree with your statement. A keris shouldn't be left rusted in the first place. But honestly, for me, there are time when a blade is better to leave with some old rust in it than loosing its original geometry/details, i.e. loosing jenggot/greneng or corroded edges. In that case I would use mechanical/abrasive method to push the rusted spot flat. Perhaps blade geometry is very important to me as how pamor or tangguh important to others.

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

I agree that wax is perhaps preferable to oil for a blade with a smooth finish. For modern custom knives I would always opt for wax, but for most blades from SE Asia, where the surface often has a high degree of topographic relief, weld imperfections, erosion, & etc, I don't really think that wax is a viable option.

Alan we are not speaking about Grinling Gibbons carvings. In that case I would use different brush to apply and buff.

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

The horn hilted blade bears many features that would permit it to be classified as Surakarta, however, it is impossible to give it this classification from a photograph, bearing in mind the long term association of Palembang with Central Jawa, it is more likely that this keris is a Palembang copy of a Surakarta keris.

Thank you for your opinion. The geometry reminds of a classical Javanese blade indeed as if when it come with pamor I would think it is a Javanese trade blade. It would be interesting to hear if other members have different view.

Originally Posted by sirek

Hello Jean,
If pineapple juice does not work because the rust is too thick ,I move on to electrolytic derusting using:
- any battery charger in the 4 amp to 20 amp range will work. (The lower the current, the longer it will take to get the job done)
Connect the Negative lead to the part that you want derusted!!!
-for the solution: About a tablespoon of household / washing soda to a gallon of water. (Fine bubbles will rise from the object when cleaning is in progress)
-after some hours scrub with Scotch Brite , rust scale is loosened and can be easily removed. Un-rusted metal is not affected in any way.


http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showth...cleaning+blade

Thank you Sirek.

Haven't done that for a while Jean, but I post example on this thread
I may add that less water (I use hot water to start with) and more sacrificial metal surrounding the object being clean seems to speed up the process as well.

The left over carbon on tiny crevices can be clean easily with soft wire brush or with acid if required to minimize the acid corroding good metal (as in acid soaking).

On a ganja iras blade it is perfectly safe, but on regular blade especially one with a bad fit/corroded pesi/omah-omahan pesi, the risk of splitting joint is present, but I can't confirm this could happen.