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Originally Posted by apolaki
Hello all,
Is sand papering the only solution to this? ...
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Manual removal with mild abrasive materials is standard operating procedures for this process. The same is true for Japanese swords, which use a slightly different abrasive method that (for me) is even more demanding and tedious.
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... I thought vinegear will losen rust and it can just be scrubed with a hard brush and then dried with hair dryer and fonally oiled down. ...
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Oh, if it were only that easy! There are no easy and quick short cuts I'm afraid. Not if you want a good result.
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... But many are stating sand papering woth dofferent grades. What are some alternate solutions?
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Manual removal, as has been suggested, is the simplest way to proceed. An alternative is to use mild abrasive blasting in a cabinet, BUT this takes experience (you need the right abrasive material, right flow rate, correct nozzle, etc.) and of course the necessary equipment including an abrasive blasting cabinet big enough to fit your work piece. The final result is a clean surface with a slightly matte finish. This will still need hand polishing and etching if you want an excellent result.
Some degree of manual work is necessary IMO if you want to achieve a good result that will be relatively maintenance free. Working the blade with your hands also gives a sense of what the original
panday was trying to achieve, and an appreciation for the skill in forging these weapons. I always have a stronger sense of ownership when I have worked for several hours polishing and cleaning, and bringing an antique blade back to its earlier condition. Some people say they can feel the "spirit" of the blade when they are working on it. Can't say that I have, but I do have a greater affinity for a piece when there has been some sweat equity gone into making it look beautiful again.
Ian