Ethnographic Arms & Armour - View Single Post

Daniel · 10th February 2007, 12:33 AM

I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc.
In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal.
If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice.
DD

10th February 2007, 12:33 AM	#27
Daniel Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: California Posts: 16	I haven't cleaned a lot of blades, but as an antique tool collector, I've had to deal with a lot of rust on iron planes, steel chisels, etc. In the past, when confronted with heavy rust on intricate surfaces, a soak for several days in a solution of half and half vinegar and water will dissolve the rust and allow removal with a light pass of steel wool. Pineapple juice probably works in much the same way. While I have heard of it, I have not used the electric current method, but I suspect the results are rather similar to the acid method. The downside to the vinegar bath is that it not only removes surface rust, but it also removes the pockets of rust inside the metal. So while you clean away all the rust, you end up with ugly surface pitting. Also, the surface finish has a "pickled" look. To make the piece presentable, you have to re-patinate the metal. If the item is important and warrants the work, I agree with the hand-labor method. 2/0 steel wool and large amounts of WD-40 plus a lot of elbow grease removes the surface rust, polishes the surface of the metal, but leaves a nice warm patina, and does not expose the pitting. After this treatment, a little touch-up of the edges where the patina has been worn through is often helpful. I've found that a quick and easy way to do touch-up patination is with a dilute solution of gunsmith blueing and browning chemicals. You can pick up Some Birchwood Casey touch-up blueing and browning solution at most gun stores. I dilute them with water, so they work much more slowly. I warm up the part in the oven and lightly wipe the surface with the diluted browning solution, followed by a pass with the diluted bluing solution. It cuts the brightness of the bare spots. After it dries, you can polish with 4/0 steel wool, and protect the finish with a bit of mineral oil. The result looks attractive and natural. And it's easy to control the appearance once you've had a little practice. DD