Hi
had some time to continue the 'club'...not quite finished, but I have learnt alot.
Some observations I have noted.... the branch dictates the size and shape of the finished head/knob due to the structural grain pattern of the wood. If you ignore the grain you would seriously weaken the finished article.
The initial shaping is relatively easy and quick ....so if a club/knobkerrie was needed in a 'hurry' ...a reasonably functional piece could be made. However, the 'fine' tuning and a good finish takes some time.
I worked on the premise that the head should be worked first ....as this would determine the length and thickness of the handle (the handle was, at first, deliberately left too long / too thick ..as it is relatively easy to cut shorter and thin it, as required to give balance/useable length)
Using heat I was able to scorch / draw natural oils to the surface which improves the hardness. Treatment not done to the handle ...as a natural flex would probably absorb the impact 'blow' better.
I have quickly tested this on my very large anvil....gradually increasing the power of the impact and assessing the damage to the club head each time..two handed with a lot of force ....NO DAMAGE..... I am stunned by how lethal a blow to the head this club could deliver. Admittedly this club is larger than the usual knobkerrie ( forced by nature ..size determined due to the grain of the wood).
Handle is at present too long....great for two handed 'operation' but needs to be shortened for effective one handed use.
The dynamics of 'balance' also raise a few questions..... if the handle end was weighted ....the 'head size' could be increased and still be 'controllable' and would 'pack more of a punch'. If that weight was a metal 'spiked pommel' you would add another dimension to its use in close quarter fighting (much like a sword pommel sometimes used to strike an opponent during the melee)
Are there any examples of clubs/knobkerries with this addition ?
Regards David
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