[Boedhi Adhitya]

Regading the division of Java, please read the good book 'Jogjakarta under Sultan Mangkubumi 1749-1792', by M.C Ricklefs, published by Oxford University Press (1974) based on Ricklefs' Ph.D thesis, the main reference book on the division of Java today.

Just before his death, Pakubuwono II ceded all Mataram kingdom to Dutch/VOC in 1749. Pakubuwono III crowned by Dutch only after signing a pact that declare that Pakubuwono III reigned not because his right by inheritance or nobleness, but because the Dutch wanted to do so.

VOC divided Mataram in two by Giyanti Treaty without consulting it to Pakubuwono III. The VOC was forced to divide Mataram to end the war he could no longer bear. It was divided mostly under Mangkubumi's conditions. There was nothing PB III could do, because almost all the noblemen had joint the rebellion, and the Dutch was the only Surakarta's proponent. Without Dutch, Surakarta would had fallen to Mangkubumi. At that time, the 1749 Treaty was useless cause The Dutch had no power to enforce it. According to Ricklefs, during the reign of Hamengkubuwono I, Yogyakarta was practically a sovereign and the most prosperous country in Java. Ricklefs called Hamengkubuwono I the greates Mataram king since Sultan Agung.

Things started to change when Pakubuwono IV reigned. Born in 1768, he knew almost nothing about the war and division of Java. He refused to acknowledge the right of Jogjakarta's crown prince to inherit the throne, and insisted that after the death of Hamengkubuwono I, Jogjakarta should be brought back to Surakarta. He also sent a letter to Batavia, asking a formal acknowledgment from Dutch that Surakarta is the senior branch, all letters from Dutch fo Jogjakarta must passed through Surakarta, and the ulema of Semarang and Jogjakarta must admit the seniority of Surakarta's ulema (priest). This claim was refused by Dutch, and all things ended in the siege of Surakarta Palace by Jogjakarta, Dutch and Mangkunegara Army. This affair known as Pakepung affair (kepung=to siege). The siege ended after PB IV surrendered and ceded the priests for exile. PB IV made at least 2 more attempt to undermine Jogjakarta's existence, but he never had courage to use his own hand, and always found a scapegoat to escape from all the intrigue he made. Just after the Pakepung affair ended, Hamengkubuwono I also made a pledge to Dutch for seniority acknowledgment, which was also refused.

The 'senior' and 'junior' branch was informally made much later after Giyanti Treaty, perhaps during the reign of Hamengkubuwono VI (1855-1877) and Pakubuwono VII, after the Java/Diponegoro War. Both prince saw similarity on their position, and tried to unite both court by marriage. Hamengkubuwono VI then married the daughter of PB VII, and to ease the ceremony, Hamengkubuwono VI came to Surakarta, which was saw as an acknowledgment of juniority by Surakarta's people. Thus, this senior-junior game just for ceremonial cause, and no more. According to Babad Giyanti written by Surakarta Poet Yosodipuro I, Yogyakarta is never be a branch of Surakarta. Both are equal. In fact, when Giyanti Treaty was signed, Yogyakarta was considered older by Yosodipuro, since Pakubuwono III is a nephew of Prince Mangkubumi (Hamengkubuwono I). It is worth to note that Yosodipuro, a Surakarta's court poet, in Babad Giyanti described Prince Mangkubumi (Hamengkubuwono I) as the hero, and Pakubuwono II and III described in less sympathetic manner.

When Mataram divided in two, both court must develop their own cultural identity. According to Babad Giyanti, Yogyakarta brought and preserve the old culture of Mataram, especially the dance and clothing style (including the keris' sheath), and Surakarta developed a new one. Thus, until now, The Yogyakarta style also known as Mataram style. In the eye of Surakarta's people, it is 'out-of-date' style, but Yogyakarta's people see their culture as the classic and authentic Mataram style.

Regarding the clothing of PB IX, it is perhaps easier to accept by Solonese to call it 'Mataram style' other than 'Yogyakarta style'. It's proper name is 'baju takwa' or better known as 'Surjan', which has a symbolic meaning. As described by Alan, it is slightly different from Yogyakarta, that is, to button from the opposite side. So it better be called 'Surakarta-modified Mataram style'. As the Mataram style has been brought to Yogyakarta, the Surjan is not quite commonly used by Surakarta's people today. Inside Yogyakarta's palace, only prince and the king himself who has the right to wear it. Susuhunan of Surakarta might use some (modified) Mataram articles which resembling Yogyakarta's because they also claim that they are the descendant of Mataram, which is definitely true.

Regarding the blangkon, it is worth to note that today's blangkon which is worn like a hat, is a recent development. Blankon word came from 'blangko', an empty paper form which you can fill, in case of blangkon, fill it with one's head. It is developed because in modern time, Javanese's hair is cut short. In old day, the hair should be long and they used 'iket' or 'dhestar', a square cloth which is fold diagonal to form triangle and then tied around your head to cover the hair. Prior to tying the iket, the long hair was tied in the back of the head to form a bulge. In most photos, we see 'iket' or 'dhestar', not blankon, thus very similar to today's yogyakarta style blangkon which preserve the form as much as possible. In Yogyakarta, blangkon developed during the reign of Hamengkubuwono VIII, roughly around 1930s. The hair bulge is still preserved today in yogyakarta blangkon, known as 'mondholan', give it the peculiar shape.

Regarding the batik cloth, the Yogyakarta style has white background. This white-background batik was also worn by Sultan Agung, as described by Dr. de Haen, VOC envoy who met Sultan Agung. (See De Graff, Puncak Kekuasaan Mataram/ De Regering van Sultan Agung...). We can see Yogyakarta's batik worn by the queen of Susuhunan PB X on photograph attached by David. The woman is Gusti Kanjeng Ratu Hemas, the daughter of Hamengkubuwono VII who married PB X. The motif is Parang rusak, worn only by high-rank noble. PB X also wear parang motif with white background, but not parang rusak. It is worth to note that almost all person in photograph wearing parang motif, a token of nobility.

Regarding the photograph first posted by Jonno,

The batik he worn definitely not Yogyakarta/Mataram batik. But the gayaman sheath looks like Yogyakarta. It is important to understand that the Yogyakarta's sheath is Mataram style, which is already exist long before the division of Java (1755), and might be used outside Yogyakarta area. It might also used by regent in Yogyakarta outer province (Mancanegara), which was confiscated by Dutch after Java War/Diponegoro War (1825-1830). Thus, we could almost sure that he came from outside Vorstenlanden (Surakarta and Yogyakarta area, after Java War). He might came from former Yogyakarta's mancanegara area. My best bet is he came from the northern coastal/pasisir area such as Demak, Rembang, etc, but not eastern coastal/pasisir such as Surabaya. Or maybe, West Java.

best regards,

boedhi adhitya