A further thought: I think that the cruder ones (like my new one) are almost all, if not completely all, modern (post Japanese colonial period, or possibly during it). These are originally (pre-Japanese colonial period) strictly upper-class items - quality matters in this case.
On the other hand, these were probably illegal for lower classes to wear, so it wasn't necessary to have a fancy one to show that one was upper class, just to have one. But on the other other hand, what impoverished upper class family wants to display their impoverishment so publicly? Thus, I think they are recent, after the old class system disappeared.
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