Ethnographic Arms & Armour - Rust

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- Ethnographic Weapons (http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=2)

- - Rust - Before and After (http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=19911)

Rust - Before and After

Hello,

After many days of work, I'd like to share the results of removing the rust from a Sikin that I acquired some time ago. I am attaching two pictures. One of the sword as it is today. The other is a "before" and "after" composite picture that shows a portion of the middle of the blade and fuller. I tried to line up the features and size in each of the pictures. Both are in color with outdoor diffuse light.

l'll admit that my treatment of the blade was aggressive and some material was lost. However, the condition of the blade was so bad that I could hardly look at it.

I used chemicals (dilute phosphoric acid), mechanical methods including a Dremel tool with a variety of 400 grit diamond tool ends and abrasive finishing attachments, and hand sanding with 320 grit and 400 grit paper, finishing with 5 micron down to 2 micron paper. A little light oil and that's it.

Dave A.

Good job, much more pleasing to the eye now.

From your previous thread, which one of these sellers quotes was most accurate for you knowing the before and after of it all?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveA

Hello! If you are new to collecting, you may be confused by the lingo used in many descriptions of swords for sale. Here is a brief primer, a list my esteemed colleagues are welcome to augment:

"slight stains on blade" = (the blade is more rust than steel)

"light rust spots" = (the blade is rusted beyond recognition)

"rare" = (it's the only one I have at the moment)

"scabbard slightly dented" = (it looks like a train ran over it)

"some minor pitting" = (you can see light thru the rust holes)

"blade has small nicks in edge" = (you could use it as a saw)

"good sword for martial arts" = (no collector would buy it)

"blade could use a light polish" = (it will only cost $2000 to restore this jewel)

"sword needs some restoration" = (it will cost $5000 and two years work to save this dog)

"sword just came out of the woodwork" = (it's been in the back of my closet for years)

"selling this sword with no reserve" = (I'll take anything to get rid of this loser)

"blade has minor flaws" = (the steel is peeling off in chunks)

"a good study sword" = (blade is damaged beyond repair)

"blade is slightly bent" = (it looks like a cork screw)

Best Regards,

Dave A

Gavin

Gavin,

In fact, it was this sword that inspired me to post that list.

- slight stains on blade
- light rust spots
- some minor pitting

This was more or less the description provided ... And no close-up photos. As you can see from the before photo, this blade had active and deep rust as well as hard, carbonized rust deposits. This blade might have become a pile of rust dust in a year or two.I didn't really know if it was salvageable in some form. However, it represented was a good chance to practice various techniques and procedures. Finesse, and knowing when to stop are key.

You pay your money and take a chance. The risks are few when buying from a trusted dealer, but far greater in almost all other situations when personal inspection is impossible.

:shrug:

Dave

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveA

...
You pay your money and take a chance. The risks are few when buying from a trusted dealer, but far greater in almost all other situations when personal inspection is impossible.

:shrug:

Dave

I think this can be applied to anything of commerce and value, cars, bicycles, houses... people.... you name it. Not sure this can be a good guide when buying antique swords though...
... one must know what he/she is getting:):):)

P.S. all I meant is that the bulk, if not all, responsibility lies on buyer, not the subtle words sellers use to describe the condition, that's all. There's a growing trend to judge the sellers and descriptions, and I hope it'll change to discussing the item's features and ensuing authenticity.