Fullered Moro Kris Blade question

[punal]

Question from a new bie.
Attached are photos of my fullered Moro Krises, ranging from single to triple fullers. Each has its own uniqueness and beauty, but the question is, what are the actual functions or purposes of this elongated deep canal look, chesseled? on each blades. thanks :)

[nechesh]

Sweet collection Punal, i would gladly own any of them. :)
I would imagine that if they indeed have a practical function it is as blood lets. Frankly, i just like the way they look. :D

[zelbone]

Weight reduction.

[punal]

Nechesh, Zel, thanks for the info, but aren't you guys supposed to be barbecueing outside for the holidays instead of starring at your monitors :D

[ariel]

The purpose of fullers is threefold:
1. The make the blade lighter. The energy is proportionate to the mass of the blade times square of velocity with which it is wielded ( just like any other energy, including the famous Einsteinian equation :) ). Thus, a small sacrifice in the mass of the blade allows the swordsman to move it faster, thus increasing the energy of the cut. An example: decrease the mass from 2 to 1, and increase the speed from 2 to 4 (same proportion): the energy of the blow increases twofold.
2. Creation of fullers increases the surface length of the tranverse section. This increases it's rigidity (less bendable) The fuller creates a section of a semi-pipe, and we all know that it is much easier to bend a solid piece of metal than a pipe of the same diameter. this is why several narrow fullers are mechanically better than a single wide one. The same principle applies to the "T-spine".
3. To serve as "blood grooves", but only in horror movies :D :D

[MABAGANI]

weight and balance control, rigidity to some degree but not true for all, multiple narrow fullers for weight and balance are still flexible

[nechesh]

Nechesh, Zel, thanks for the info, but aren't you guys supposed to be barbecueing outside for the holidays instead of starring at your monitors :D

LOL! Well yes, probably, but i got stuck working so i checked in on the forum. No one else in the office to watch me. :rolleyes:

Thanks for that info Zel and Mabagani. Something i never knew. This explanation wouldn't, however, explain similar fullers on the smaller Indo keris (i.e. keris carita and certain Balinese and Javanese blades), so i wonder still. :)

[Rick]

Art for art's sake David ? :)

[BluErf]

I think the fullers on the smaller indonesian/malay kerises would still serve a weight reduction purpose. It never hurts to have a lighter and quicker thrusting keris. :)

Punal - did you polish your krises personally? I think you did a great job! Shows that you are really patient and meticulous. :)

[punal]

I think the fullers on the smaller indonesian/malay kerises would still serve a weight reduction purpose. It never hurts to have a lighter and quicker thrusting keris. :)

Punal - did you polish your krises personally? I think you did a great job! Shows that you are really patient and meticulous. :)



yes, i hand polished them my self. thanks :)

[nechesh]

Hi Punal. Would you mind sharing you method of blade polishing? :)

[punal]

Hi Punal. Would you mind sharing you method of blade polishing? :)


This how a newbie polishes his blades :D
I start by putting a thin kevlar glove on my working hand for protection. For super rusty blades, I use a 320 grit wet/dry sanding paper, it scrapes the rust off the blades easily, continue with 800 grits and finish it with 1500. For newer blades with a few grazes on 'em, i use 800-1500 grits depending on how bad the scuffs are. After the sanding process, I wash the blade thoroughly with soap and water, dry it, then I apply a metal polishing agent all over the blade (I use Mothers metal polisher) and buff it using a dry clean cotton cloth (old cotton shirts works fine), I buff it until I meet the desired sheen. Once the buffing process is complete, I brush the blade with soap and warm clean water to remove the blade's pores blockage from the polishing agent, wet a clean cotton cloth with acetone/alcohol and wipe it thoroughly on to the blade, blow dry it using a hair dryer (hot), now the blade is ready to be etch or if you want a luster look, simply buff it again with a dry cotton cloth, or, light etch it with lemon juice, dry it, and buff it (no polishing solution), result, lustered laminated blade. Final touch, oiling the blade or ren. waxing it. This process works for me but not advisable to everyone ;)